I find these to be strangely entertaining to read, even thought I am not a good swimmer, and I certainly haven't come anywhere remotely close to doing anything resembling a wave surfing (although, come to think of it, I do work with "wakefields" and make electrons "surf" on those wakefields. So I suppose that's close enough).
In any case, these are two parts of an article on the physics of surfing, in case you are curious about such things.
Part 1
Part 2
Zz.
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